dtrain
Off and Racing
Posts: 5
|
Post by dtrain on Sept 14, 2011 1:55:40 GMT 10
hey guys
i'm new to this forum and wodering if any could offer me some advice rebuilding my 1600. i am a spraypainter by trade so have got that side of things soughted but have no clue about engines and all that stuff.
i want the car for mainly street use but would like to do club days one day.
i was thinking of going with worked l20 with a 5k budget but lately have thought about sr20 fj20 depending on cost and have also seen some sr20 and fj converted to carby would this be cheaper than efi? any advice on this and suspension, brakes, diffs would greatly appreciated.
|
|
|
|
Post by mkyle on Sept 14, 2011 7:04:39 GMT 10
If mainly for road will need an engineer's report for an sr20. I'd lean towards an L20B with webber or twin webbers or SR20 non turbo. Turbo SR20 best power but more expensive again ($5K+). EFI setup not common for L series motors and more expensive, but better for tuning/smooth driving/fuel consumption. Expect to pay $1.5-2.5K+ for EFI on L series.
If you want a cheap sr20 setup, I have an sr20 s13 efi with standard computer and gearbox $1000. Would need a conversion kit (reverse crossmember,etc); someone on here had one to swap a few months ago. This would get you an easy 90 rwkw and would be reliable/excellent usable power/good on fuel. I would estimate the total cost as around $2.5K - $3.5K all up, including engineer's report.
Cheaper to go EFI with SR20, as most motors will come with EFI standard with computer. Add another $1000 for twin webbers with manifold, for no real gain.
I also have a recently reconditioned L20B engine $1000 for sale (no gearbox - expect to pay $300-$400 for a 5 speed, one for sale on this website), but you will be hard pressed getting more than 70rwkw out of that without headwork and rebuild, twin webbers etc. 90+rwkw achievable but harder to get/more costly.
So you have 2 options, in my opinion : L Series or SR20 webbers/efi /turbo.
Search on the Ozdat website for more info re brakes and suspension. Usually beefier spings, good shocks, adjustable castor/camber front/vented front brakes with r31 rear discs. Have most parts your interested in.
Any one else interested in the parts described - first in best dressed.
Mark
|
|
|
|
Post by bluebird on Sept 14, 2011 21:25:00 GMT 10
The JAP only Autech S15 SR20 N/A motor would be the way to go on the budget your looking at! Around 160hp stock, variable cams, heaps of potential for future mods(ie: cold air induction, extractors, sports exhaust +15% 192hp)! Have a hunt around for a good one at a decent price <$1400 with ECU and loom! Track down a factory workshop manual and have a whirl at trying to understand how to wire it up yourself and have a auto electrician check it over! Saves heaps of cash in the future with little elctro gremlins if you understand what's going on and how to fix them! Most importantly have a firm budget, do your homework, shop around and always barter! CA18DE's are getting old are overpriced and the heads crack, S13 SR20DE's the same but without the head prob's! S14's never came NA so a 2001 S15 Autech SR20DE 6sp front cut is really the best buy these days!!!
|
|
dtrain
Off and Racing
Posts: 5
|
Post by dtrain on Sept 14, 2011 23:48:06 GMT 10
thanks fella's appreciate your help sr it is i think! do you guys know anyone up north that will do conversions for a good price?
|
|
|
|
Post by mkyle on Sept 15, 2011 6:39:12 GMT 10
Bluebird - Where can you get an autech for around $1400?  Try $3-4K plus gearbox if you can find one. At $1400 I'd buy 3. I didn't see one autech engine for sale last year; but if you have supplier details please share. P plates on the big island to the North want the autech as well as some states don't allow them to have a turbo; so they want the most powerful non turbo. I have been waiting a whole year for an S15 Sr20de VVT non autech for my rally car and am still waiting. Quoted price is $1700 plus freight, no gearbox. Japan earthquake didn't help re availablility/supply. As still waiting for the engine, the price might change, but I am not obligated to buy. So a S15 VVT or autech are quite rare. So if looking for either of these engines, you are better off going turbo. Plenty of SR20 turbo 1600 for sale, so selling yours and buying one already done is another option. Only reason I am looking for an autech is because I am not allowed a turbo for dirt rallying a Datsun 1600 (CAMS - clubman rally car rules). I'd still lean to a cheaper SR20 n/a S13 or L20B with webbers for a street/some club days kind of car. dtrain - if you want an SR conversion without lifting a finger, expect to pay around $10K for the conversion. In this case you would probably be better off selling your car and buying an already modified SR 1600. There are plenty for sale online - ebay/car sales.com, etc. If your budget is $5K and you have a painted shell, but no engine/gearbox and don't want to lift a finger, $5K would probably only get you a fairly standard L20B installed, if you are lucky. A motor rebuild can be done for >$1.2K yourself or $4K if someone else does it; but this is only a very basic rebuild. Then add at least $1K for the install, plus gearbox, plus all the other incidentals like exhaust, oil, filters, carbi, alternator, etc etc. Therefore you are expected to install the engine, gearbox, etc yourself to stay under the $5K budget. Search OZDAT re what is required and do it yourself and save heaps. Plus you will know the car better, can fix it and be fulfilled with the rebuild. There are no SR conversion for "a good price" under $5K without lifting a finger. Mark |
|
dtrain
Off and Racing
Posts: 5
|
Post by dtrain on Sept 15, 2011 15:05:09 GMT 10
yeah i couldn't find any autechs either.
would it be worth spending some cash on an s13 sr like cams pistons heads and stuff and could you still keep standard computer with engine mods? or just go turbo? i sought of like the idea of a worked n/a motor.
|
|
|
|
Post by mkyle on Sept 15, 2011 17:01:44 GMT 10
Unless you like building engines (and want every bit out hp out of it, have heaps of time on your hands and/or want to do a thorough build of the car with no stone left unturned) , the standard sr20s are excellent unmodified. Normal mod is to just put on extractors, good tune with standard computer, good airfilter and away you go.
From what I can guage from what you said (road car, some track work), its not worth wasting your time and money on an engine build. If you are thinking like that (and hence are after max power), then the no brainer answer is go turbo and be done with it. You will end up with heaps of power from a standard turbo engine. It is a waste of time modifying a n/a sr20 unless you are rallying/racing in a non-turbo class or are a p plater not allowed a turbo (not sure about the rules in Tassie).
Mark
|
|
|
|
Post by hoolio510 on Sept 15, 2011 18:46:34 GMT 10
I am not in a position to part any knowledge on anything other than my awsome 1600  but what I will say is Mark knows his stuff, no disregard to anyone else intended but Mark has explored many many avenues of the power for money conundrum. |
|
|
|
Post by danial on Sept 15, 2011 19:15:13 GMT 10
I have a SR20DE FWD engine for sale if interested $ 400 with computer and loom. no gearbox.
|
|
|
|
Post by mkyle on Sept 16, 2011 6:03:51 GMT 10
If the engine is FWD, then it won't fit!!!!! RWD S13, S14, S15 only for a 1600.
Sr20 gearboxes usually go for around $600 plus freight ($200+ from mainland). They are fairly sort after and relatively expensive as the drift boys blow them up. The 6 speeds are fairly weak apparently.
Mark
|
|
|
|
Post by danial on Sept 16, 2011 7:55:42 GMT 10
You could always put a different head on it so the dizzy comes out front passenger side instead of hitting the fire wall. was going to use it in my 1200 coupe but have since sold the car.
|
|
|
|
Post by mkyle on Sept 16, 2011 16:52:43 GMT 10
Puting another head on a FWD engine is not an easy nor cheap exercise and not worth the effort considering the use of the car described. I think I read that the FWD bottom end is incompatible for RWD so is of no use.
A mod is to put a FWD head (later heads have a better design) onto a RWD engine. This would also require a full engine rebuild, adapter plate from USA and lots of mucking around/machining/expense. Expect to pay $6-10K+ for this setup, without lifting a finger.
Simply not worth doing for this purpose.
The S13 EFI or L20B webbers is still the cheapest option for good reliable grunt. Then the turbo for max power. Keep the sr20s bog standard and save $$$$.
dtrain - your going to have to get your hands dirty if you want to keep under the $5K budget. "Without lifting a finger" jobs soon add up to big money.
Mark
|
|
dtrain
Off and Racing
Posts: 5
|
Post by dtrain on Sept 18, 2011 23:52:50 GMT 10
thanks mark you sound like you know your shit sounds like i might have to save some$$$! thanks for the info though. oh and i seen an autech motor on ebay today if your still looking.
|
|
|
|
Post by mkyle on Sept 19, 2011 6:30:54 GMT 10
wow. thanks for the heads up.
|
|
|
|
Post by scando on Sept 23, 2011 6:15:24 GMT 10
|
|
|
|
Post by mkyle on Sept 23, 2011 19:53:00 GMT 10
|
|
|
|
Post by boost on Sept 26, 2011 20:02:18 GMT 10
Hey dtrain how are you m8 I need some panel work done on my race car and it just so happens that I am a engine reconditioner (ex merv gray) now working as a fitter with welding certification and a 1600 sr conversion to copy we might be able to work something out and I live near launnie.
Cheers Shane
|
|
dtrain
Off and Racing
Posts: 5
|
Post by dtrain on Sept 28, 2011 0:11:49 GMT 10
hey there no worries mark happy to help out.
hey shane that sounds good mate im a fair way off being ready for engines and stuff but if you need some work done soonish im sure we can work something out, my email is dwaynekeegan@hotmail.com
cheers dwayne
|
|
|
|
Post by bluebird on Oct 12, 2011 20:53:15 GMT 10
ARHH, look at that JDMspares have a S15 200SX VVT SR20DE less ECU for $1,200 on Ebay!!! You can get them, just have to wait till the Jap wreckers have a new container on the way and want to get rid of stock on the floor! Worked at a Jap engine wrecker up in Brizzy for a while and $200 is all they pay for each eng, (untested and just thrown in a 40ft shipping cont)
|
|
|
|
Post by mkyle on Oct 14, 2011 6:30:18 GMT 10
Thats probably the motor I was going to buy from SA and was waiting over 12 months for (buyers probably won't have to wait as long for one now; now that the earthquake has been and gone). Looks like the motor comes with the ECU as well. I'd still rather pay $800 extra for an autech with the good extractors and an extra 35hp.
Expect $400 freight, $500+ freight for gearbox.
Can be done for under $5K; just have to get your hands dirty.
Mark
|
|
Try $3-4K plus gearbox if you can find one. At $1400 I'd buy 3. I didn't see one autech engine for sale last year; but if you have supplier details please share. P plates on the big island to the North want the autech as well as some states don't allow them to have a turbo; so they want the most powerful non turbo. 
