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Post by datwivrice on Oct 19, 2011 21:58:26 GMT 10
just want to double check something with the datto rally fans.
is it ok to use a l20b in a 1600 datto and still be allowed to run in production car rally? i believe it is ok because its still in the 1.6 to 2 litre class, but the biggest engine that the 510 came out with was l18 so im a bit unshore.... plz help fellas, thanx, dave.
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Post by mkyle on Oct 20, 2011 5:50:37 GMT 10
Yes L20B now allowed (last 5+ years) as PRC, but there are some restrictions. Look up CAMS Manual online - rally - PRC "substitute engines". L20B allowed for 1600, even though they only came out with L16 or L18.
I have an L20B in my orange rally car.
At the moment PRC is the main class in Tas rallying, but they (Tas rally panel) might/might not allow clubman rally cars (allowed SR20 non turbo) to gain points next year and into the future. Clubman's are currently allowed to compete, but for no series points. Clubmans are allowed in classic rallies, such as the excellent St Helens rally held August each year.
I am building a clubman SR20 for the odd rally (St Helens and perhaps a few TRS) and a bit for baskerville; so will have one car of each, regardless of which way they go.
Hence it is unclear what is the best way to go. L20B for PRC or the more powerful/modern technology of the SR20. You might want to upgrade to the SR20 now and future proof your car or find the L20B out classed in a few years and need replacing.
Still lots of life in the L20B though, just need lots of mods to get decent HP. Have no idea which way the rules are going (actually the rules are in place - just up to the Tas rally panel and fellow competitors as to what they will allow).
The way I am currently thinking is that an SR20 clubman is the future and what I would now currently be aiming for. Cost wise both options would be fairly close. L20B with webbers and build yourself ($3K+); import SR20 with EFI and standard computer around $3K. One has 70 - 100rwkw fairly to highly modified, the other 90 - 120rwkw standard with better aircleaner,exhaust and engine untouched.
I just bought an autech S20 S15 VVT 200hp engine with extractors,computer for $2500 delivered, but there was an Sr20 S15 VVT 165hp in SA for $1200 with computer.
Give me a call to discuss : 62450918
Mark
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Post by bluebird on Oct 23, 2011 17:00:49 GMT 10
Just wondering, what's the difference between a Autech S15 VVT motor and a S14 VVT motor? Apart from induction system's are the heads any different, cams/ports/ valves so on? Is it possible to get
similar power outputs from both engines? Would the Pulsar GTI-R quad throttle body intake fitted to a S14 SR20DE VVT motor be a worthwhile exercise? Being a twin cam setup mild stage 1 cams would be about as far as you'd want to go with a rally engine to retain good torque! Oversize inlet valves a good extrude hone on the ports a set of Ivan Tighe cams and GTI-R intake on a rebuilt SR20DET short block(under piston oil squirter's) with NA pistons should see around 230HP at 7000rpm and be bullet proof!
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Post by mkyle on Oct 27, 2011 5:32:33 GMT 10
If you have a "bluebird" you would be better off with a SR20 turbo (allowed under the rules under clubman as they came out with a Z18 turbo & hence allowed to run a substitute engine with turbo. Not so with the Datsun 1600s - n/a only allowed).
Not sure about the mods, but have heard of putting the FWD heads onto the rear wheel drive Sr20 with some mod parts from the USA. Lot of talk about these, but never heard of any final power figures; nor a complete write up on the build.
You could build one and let us know?
The attaction of an autech is that you can get good power whilst still avoiding an expensive build. I would say the minimum for a build like that would be $4k, if you build it yourself. Even a standard engine L20B rebuild would cost over $2K, if you build it yourself (good discussion on OZDAT re costs).
Put the autech engine in standard with better air filter, good tune and away you go.
Moreso with rallying, the engine is only one part in the whole package and money overspent on one part, can mean compromises must be made on other parts of the car (eg suspension, diff, brakes, safety).
Unless you have heaps of time and money, then you can go nuts.
Mark
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