Aaahh yes zee Herrmann machine!!! do you remember the Japanese gentlemen competing in this car in the first ever Targa??? As for a genuine ex-factory car, I suppose technically they all were...so you would not be lying.
Thanks Scando, no Byron was the first owner back in the 70's.......If it is the same car. What sort of camber does that give you? and do you have anyother form of adjustment of your camber. I suppose it oversteering like a wild thing turn in is not a problem? Fix those swaybars yet? Anyone go to the drift's? any photo's.
popped in to use the work computer. looks like im not the only one on holiday. still got camber fever bluerat? the r30 front end is coming out so ill get a pic for you. the engine i pulled out cos it has issues. it wont turn over by hand, the chain tensioner is rooted so im putting it on a stand and stripping it down. there is some poor workmanship here and there and the sump had water in it. it looks like a major overhaul on the way. it looks like an L6 will go straight in the cedric no worries! ive been playing with engine mounts and ive got a patrol sump so its good.
my mate and my girlfriend both have toyotas, a 77 celica 18R and an 83 corolla 4C ive worked on both recently and they are
stupid, crap, illogical, and tedious. not like Datsuns.
I've never had the camber measured on it. Once I get all the new bushes in it I'll get a wheel alignment done and get them to check the camber and castor. It's got a reasonable amount of camber on it because the mounting holes for the front suspension arms have been re-drilled further out on the cross member although it's not a heap by race car standards. I know re-drilling the mounting holes isn't recommended because it can stuff up your steering geometry but it seems ok. It does have a bit of understeer which I think causes some of the oversteer because it means I have too much lock on as I'm getting the power down. I think getting rid of the understeer is as simple as getting an LSD but long nose R200 LSD's are very expensive. I think we've got the swaybars about right, borrowed a 18mm rear off Mick and tried it and it was heaps more drivable than with the 22mm although not any quicker. So I bought an 18mm Whiteline one to put on it. quite a few people have said to me that certain cars handle well round Baskerville with no rear swaybar so I'll have to try that too.
re-drilling the cross member is an old bump steer cure for 1600's, back a bit and up a bit!! Try no rear swaybar, but I suspect it will look a lot like a recent photo of my car!! wobbling around. On paper it will under steer a lot worse. But try it....who know's. What's a slippery worth?? like most problems it might take a few different things, each doing a little bit, to fix it understeering. I, like you are finding no rego a pain for testing. maybe when you sell the 4by4 Valiant, should buy a nice standard green 240Z daily driver?? get my drift! wink,wink, nudge, nudge.
Next time your talking to Mick, tell him he has the class C record at Minna road hillclimb, and there is a guy in a blue 1600 only .2 of a second behind him!!! It's on again 12/08/07 and the Highcleare hillclimb is on 25/2/07 better get him up . We just got permission for the Circluar head kart club re:track day so watch this space.
Post by wombatracing on Jan 8, 2007 16:34:11 GMT 10
Aaahh yes zee Herrmann machine!!! do you remember the Japanese gentlemen competing in this car in the first ever Targa???
Funny you mention that Japanese guy I have been talking to him through email lately. He saw a few of my posts on the UK Datsun owners website and emailed me he is looking to come and compete in Targa again (2007-2008) but this time in this.
I am also trying to track down some 240Z hubcap emblems for him.
I definately get your drift. bright green, sponsorship stickers, race number and a 3" exhaust might attract a bit of attention from the boys in blue if swapped the plates over though! If I can sell the Valiant then an LSD is high on the list, along with this SI rego I've been planning on getting for the last 12 months or so. I priced a 2nd hand R200 Long nose LSD off a Z wrecker in Victoria and they quoted $1,200! Mick is trying to source one for me a bit cheaper. Swainey Snr also commented that he might be able to get one cheap for me off the guy you were talkiing about that runs the R31 coupe.
So what's inspired you to go searching for camber on the 1600? Understeer? I'll definately let Mick know that a certain gentleman in a very Blue 1600 is gunning for his Minna Rd record. Might inspire him to make the trip up. I'm still keen for the hillclimb and track day at Smithton but like everything else at the moment it will depend on me selling the GSR. I had a bloke keen as from QLD, wasn't even going to look at the car first, just buy it off the photos! But his bank wouldn't give him finance cause he'd only been at a new job a month.
I'm not searching for camber any more, we were a couple of month's ago,when I started enquiring. I use datrally adjustable strut top's, which work well, but are hard to adjust, and only really give you half a degree at a time, so we were checking out other method's, and ways of doing it. The reason I was asking about arm length was to try and find a longer std Datsun arm to replace the 1600 one, and not have to cut and shut etc.... I've basically used the same suspension set up for the last 15 years, which sounds pretty suss, I know, but it worked. Now I know why!! change 1 thing and your chasing it for six months, I went to the clubday with new everything, expecting to go 2 seconds quicker, and went 2 seconds a lap slower!! You take advice and buy stuff from the best Datsun minds in Australia, and go slower!!, so now I will only change 1 thing at a time, and do more events to check them.....or buy a GasGas300....or an '81 Maico 490....
Kelvin is always worth a talk too, re:parts, I was around there before Christmas, and saw plenty of motors, but no diff's....as for the record, Mick is the next class up from me, but it's not good to be beat by a slower car!! A certain Cosworth powered white Escort hold's the class B record, and will be very hard to beat....But 2door sleeper, and a well known blue Valiant Sigma are in Micks class .......
So were the measurements I gave you for the 240Z arms much different to the 1600 arms? Using the same setup for the past 15 years makes perfect sense to me. If something is working then leave it alone. And one thing I learnt in karts is to only change one thing at a time. Otherwise you just end up chasing your tail and unsure what made you go quicker or slower, as you know It's hard to know what will work and what won't when you're buying stuff because usually the bloke your getting advice off is the same bloke who's trying to make money from selling something to you! So what's the plan? Put it all back how you had it and start again?
Arm length looks to be the same, I've added a few mm to the ones in it before Highcleare, which seemed to fix the understeer, but it is a very slow track compared to Symmons, and like I said before it felt fantasic at slow, and say 3/4 speeds, but when you put the boot in it went all wobbley. We also did a couple of other things before the hillclimb to try and tie it down better, but again until I get to a clubday, I wont know for sure! The big thing at the moment is the brakes....I tried new calpiers, Pads and fancy fluid for the club day, and they were not much chop! I've orded a bigger brake cylinder, to try and get rid of the spongyness, and will try higher (again) temp pad's, brake ducts and if that fails, BMS tells me that R31 Skyline rear disc's are any easy and effective set up.
Before I changed anything, or spent any cash, I spent a lot of phone time talking to ALL the experts and they were all in the same ballpark, give or take 10-20lbs. To there credit, the company I brought it off were very good to talk to the Monday morning after the clubday!!
Just as a hint, If you change anything before a meet, pop the old one in the tow car,just in case!!
Talking to Nev today in the Supermarket, look's like they have changed the opening Octogon round to the same weekend as our Hillclimb.
That's great news for me. More time to save money and work on the car. Not such good news for anybody who wanted to run both though. I reckon it's cause the Aussie Legends aren't coming til late in the year now. I think they were running the meeting early to tie in with their calander.
I know the R31 discs and callipers are popular on the Z's. Mine already had the conversion done when i bought it and Mick runs the same on his. It's supposed to be an easy conversion so I'd imagine the 1600 wouldn't be too much different. I run EBC Yellow Stuff, they're expensive but I reckon they're worth every cent. Before I started running them I would get brake shudder after 4 to 5 laps and the pedal would go a bit spongy in longer stints. With the yellows the pedal is always frim and consistant and I never get any shudder anymore. The car even sits straighter under brakes! They're a purely circuit designed pad but I reckon they'd be fine for hillclimbs because they seem to work fine straight away without warming them up.
Help......I've just got home from work and there is a Baby shower in full swing....geees I thought it was tommorow and was going fishing!...I'm now trapped in the spare room, with the lap top and my ear muff's on. I'm scared.......
Anyway, back to datsun's....hold it I'm going to put in ear plug's and the ear muff's, just a sec......that's better...So your impressed with the Yellow Stuff then, I got some Race Brakes RB75's, which everyone has been raving about for the last couple of year's, and now all they talk about is how good there new Black hawk's are!!, that's racing...They are excellent hillclimb pad's and are rated to 750 deg and work from nothing, but I fried them at Symmons....oh man....more women are turning up....oh no I've got to blow up balloon's, this is inhuman, I'd swap with David Hick's right now. It's a tough choice go out with the dog, who has just caught a rabbit, or stay here.......
Anyway I'll make this quick...Do you know the temp rating on the EBC's?? and when you say expensive, there not $700 Pagid expensive are they?? If they can pull up 300hp time after time they should pull my slug up!
I've just found something very important to do in the shed, see ya
LOL, I'm felling for ya mate. I would have gone an helped the dog out with that rabbit if I were you So what's the go? Is there a little Bluerat on the way?
I'm not sure what temp the yellows are rated at. I'm sure if you look through those sites boost posted you'll probably find it somewhere. I'm getting them at wholesale price through dad's work for around $230 for fronts and a bit cheaper for rear. Would probably be a bit cheaper for you cause the pads would be smaller. You'd think if they pull mine up fine then they should have no trouble pulling up the lighter 1600. Having said that I'd have bigger discs and callipers and I've set up some decent ducting in the front. Symmons is supposed to be much harder on brakes than Baskerville too.
Calm down boy's, no babies here!! And dog plus rabbit equal's lot's of gas from anus...tough choice...
Thank's Booster, top read...they sound good, very good. I scored some ducting from work the other week, and I'll build something for the drums. Ive got some Hilux 4 spots in the shed if needed, but I'd like to keep everything under 13's....silly I know, Drums and 13's. But If I need to drag out the bad boy's, and keep that 2doorsleeper honest I will!
LOL, yeah I play 2nd grade for Judbury in a country comp down here so they give me a call up every now and then for the NZ international side I was pretty pumped to be at the game yesterday to watch myself take a hat trick!